As I write I am sailing down the coast facing starboard to the Daintree on our way from Cooktown to Magnetic Island. I thought it a bit crazy to travel to Far North Queensland in December, however the weather has been kind with calm seas, even if it is hot and humid. Boarding APT’s expedition vessel, the Caledonian Sky in Cairns, we soon met our merry troupe of 80 as we headed north.

Our first port of call was Stanley Island. Our wet landing from zodiacs onto pristine sand readied us for our walk inland to ancient rock art overhangs; interestingly paintings of crocodiles and fish are accompanied by square-rigged sailing ships and depictions of pearl luggers. The naturalist guides bring to life the area, introducing us to the history of the region, the varied flora and fauna.

Heading north we set foot on Cape York, strolling through the local area finding wild orchids, green ants, and mango trees laden with fruit. Scrambling across the rocky shore we reach the very northern tip of Queensland for sunset. We wave at passing fishermen from the surrounding Torres Strait Islands.

Travelling on this small expedition vessel provides us with the opportunity to visit remote isolated islands where we find markings in the sand of a turtle wandering to see if there is a nesting site and further down the beach the distinct markings of a crocodile – perhaps the 4-metre creature rumoured to live in the nearby mangroves? As we wander into the balmy water for a welcome swim, we see the three prominent fins of a reef shark that wanders off as we enter its territory. At one point a school of baby reef sharks scoot by – we counted eleven, each about 50cm long.

Early morning sees us anchor off Lizard Island – the fit amongst us climb Cook's Look in the cooler early hours; the second landing is for those taking the nature walk and then we all don stinger suits to snorkel in the extraordinarily clear waters. Offshore are giant clams, colourful coral, brilliant blue sea stars, sleepy sea cucumbers, graceful turtles, tiny darting neon fish, coral crunching parrotfish, bright yellow angelfish … the list goes on. Late at night, we look overboard and there drifting by in the ship's floodlights is a 4-metre grey nurse shark looking for scraps to eat.
This morning we explored Cooktown, this small township offers a rich history as Cook's landing place to repair the Endeavour. There is a small yet delightful botanical garden; the James Cook Museum full of memorabilia from yesteryear is housed in the historical nunnery. I can’t imagine what the Irish nuns thought of Far North Queensland when they arrived in their habits – apparently one prayed for a cool breeze!
The delightful Caledonian Sky is owned by APT and is one of the few cruise ships operating in Australian waters – I can recommend these expeditions to areas less frequently travelled. In 2022 she explores South Australia, the coral coast of WA and the Kimberley.

More details: 5545 1600; travel@travellingplaces.com.au