There’s nothing quite like a global pandemic to get people thinking about the science and history of disease. Over the last two years, we’ve all had to educate ourselves on everything from infection control to the basics of virology and epidemiology. Once upon a time these topics would have seemed niche—unimportant to your average Joe. But once COVID-19 became front and centre in our lives—affecting where we could go, who we could see, how we could spend our days— our thirst for information regarding the virus quickly became unquenchable. Cognisant of the fact that the COVID-19 pandemic will go down in the history books as one of the largest, most far-reaching pandemics in human history, it’s interesting to compare our experiences of the COVID-19 pandemic with accounts of other plagues throughout history.

For winemakers, one particular plague has had a colossal impact on the shape of the modern wine industry—Phylloxera.

Although not posing a threat to humans, Phylloxera is a formidable foe when it comes up against Vitis vinifera—aka the wine grape. Unlike COVID-19, Phylloxera isn’t a virus but rather a microscopic insect that feasts on the roots of grapevines. In the 19th century, this bug singlehandedly obliterated the majority of vineyards across Europe, causing a worldwide wine shortage and destroying the livelihoods of thousands of winemakers.

These tiny creatures secrete poison into the plant’s roots and leaves, resulting in deformity and cutting grapes off from their water supply and other vital nutrients. To this day, there is still no cure—most Phylloxera afflicted vines will eventually shrivel and die.

Indigenous to the Americas, Phylloxera was introduced to Europe in the mid-19th-century. While native American grapevine species have a level of immunity to Phylloxera, European species are highly susceptible. Once these tiny creatures landed on European soil, they spread through the continent like wildfire. Some estimate Phylloxera wiped out between 40-70% of all European vineyards within the span of a few decades, with France being particularly hard hit.

Mysteriously, a handful of vineyards were left untouched by the Phylloxera epidemic. Wines produced from these pure ancient grapes are still highly sought-after today and come with a hefty price tag. Some argue that wine created from “self-rooted” vines tastes better than those from grafted roots, although there is little evidence to back up this theory.

After “The Great French Wine Blight”, most viticulturists had to start over from scratch. Many grafted European grapevines onto American rootstock in an attempt to develop some resistance against the bug. This strategy worked for the most part, although there are still outbreaks of Phylloxera cropping up here and there. Having said this, some isolated wine-growing regions have managed to completely avoid contact with Phylloxera. Chile, as well as isolated parts of Australia (Tasmania and Western Australia), thanks to strict biosecurity and quarantine restrictions. An interesting consequence of the Phylloxera epidemic is that some of the world’s oldest vines still producing grapes are right here in Australia, as opposed to their old-world homelands… who would have thought?

Cheers,
 Alexandra Douglas and the Witches Falls Winery Team